Today's princesses smell in the same way as we. / Part 2/

The quality mark from a star

By the end of the 19th century of crowned persons already nobody considered legislators of fashion. The palm from them was taken away by actresses — at first theater, and then and cinema. In the same time of a star began to appear in advertizing. In 1898 on streets of Paris there was an advertizing poster (by the way, it looked as the usual poster), on which great Sara Bernhardt advertized rice La Diaphane powder. Well and off it went. Stars of cinema (generally Hollywood) began to trade in the person on the left and to the right. Here some brands obliged by the popularity to the famous actresses: Lux soap (Joan Crawford, Audrey Hepburn, Sofia Lauren), cosmetics of Max Factor (Liz Taylor, Ava Gardner, Judee Garland, Grace Kelly), Lustre-Creme shampoo (Marilyn Monroe).

Legendary M.M. phrase that she considers the best clothes in a bed couple of drops of perfume of "Chanel No. 5" rendered to this aroma fantastic service. Since then only the most beautiful, distinguished and refined women were persons of this smell. At first Frenchwomen (Catherine Deneuve, Carole Bouquet), and recently both foreigners — Estella Warren and Nichole Kidman (the last signed the largest contract in the history of perfumery advertizing — for five million dollars).

Lately the quantity of the stars advertizing new smells promptly increased: Chiara Mastroianni ("Enjoy"), Liv Tyler ("Very Irresistible" from Givenchy), Milla Jovovich ("Night"), Monica Bellucci ("Sicily"). In the history of advertizing there were many cases when after successful flashing in a TV roller to very few people the known model or the beginning actress became a star. Having acted in the advertizing "Chanel No. 5" (the video was shot by Luc Besson), Estella Warren sharply changed the career — the glorified directors began to invite its.

And Monica Bellucci, having worked on advertizing of spirits "Sicily" for the director Giuseppe Tornatore, so it was pleasant to it that he invited her in the movie "Malena". This picture transferred Monica to the category of superstars. Rupert Everett and would act in a mass meeting, do not become he the face of the Opium men's fragrance.

In the 90th stars appeared to advertize not enough others product — they wanted to release the. In the 1989th Elizabeth Taylor released the first aroma "Passion", and a year later one more — "White Diamonds".
They say that these spirits though had success, but with very certain contingent — the trying to look younger old women with a permanent wave and diamond rings.

What is absolutely unsurprising: when the person pecks on a smell of this or that star, he dreams though in something to become similar to it. So each new aroma from the famous actor or the actress (a bit later sport stars were added to them) is designed for a certain public. It is unlikely perfume from Omar Sharif will be bought by the stylish young man, and spirits from Jennifer Lopez — the successful business lady. And here the elderly businessman and (respectively) the relaxed girl will buy surely!

Effective advertizing of spirits is a half of success. And unsuccessful — full breakdown. When Yves Saint Laurent's company put on the market spirits under the name "Champagne" (having, probably, in a look that they excite not worse, than sparkling drink), it did not assume that producers of champagne will file a lawsuit against it, having accused of use of the original name without their consent. The company then flew for millions of dollars: besides legal costs it had to pay creation and sticking-up of new labels. Champagne was renamed in Ivrez.

Eras and styles

Today by production of spirits use not only natural substances, but also synthetic. The revolutionary novelty was applied when developing spirits of "CK One" from Calvin Klein. A certain smart chemical compound which influences subconsciousness of the person was their part. The aroma of these spirits of people feels only a two-three of minutes after perfumed. Then the aroma vanishes, but the brain continues to perceive it as a natural smell of skin. And the smell which this is so attracting that clients as if under hypnosis go to perfumery shop again and again.

What spirits it is better — synthetic or natural — to tell very difficult. And to distinguish of what substances spirits are made, only the professional can. That and others have advantages and the shortcomings. The spirits created on a synthetic basis are much more durable natural and at the same time also cost cheaper (the liter of natural rose attar costs about 30-35 thousand francs). But natural it is easier to advertize: a jasmine from fields of Grasse or a ylang-ylang from the Comoro Islands are to you not a boring chemical formula from figures and letters.

At all variety of human tastes the fashion for spirits is traced very accurately. At the beginning of the XX century — modernist style era — the woman had to smell sweet as a flower: iris, tuberose, jasmine, rose. The fashion for orientalism added to them spicy east smells. During World War I became not to spirits — women's. But there is well-known Shipr — a tart men's smell.

The 30th years of the last century — blossoming of "men's" smells: fresh, sports, with notes of leather and tobacco. In 1944 the challenge is thrown down by Marcel Roche — as a protest against war he creates superwomanly aroma which and is called — "Femme". And three years later there is "Miss Dior", logical addition to womanly toilets and the streaming fabrics of diorovsky New Look. Ladies began to remember spirits not only gathering for a ball.

In the 60th, an era of hippie and the first flights in space, bisexual smells became fashionable. At the same time the spicy note (a tribute to hobby for east philosophy) also gets into spirits. The world is conquered by "Fiji" and "Anais".

The 80th years with their cult of money and career demanded sharper and tart aromas: "Poison", "Samsara". Then there came time of a unisex of the 90th with their cool and fresh smells: "Obscession", "Eternity", "CK One".