Unforgettable holiday on picturesque islands of the Russian North

Hi everyone! Someone from you watched the last release of the program "Let's Go, We Will Eat!" what comes to NTV? This time the leader visited the Arkhangelsk region and acquainted the audience with features of the Pomor cuisine. I infrequently watch this transmission, but contemplated this release with special attention. The matter is that the teleproject repeated my summer route – exactly there I held the short, but very bright holiday of 2022.

Yes, normal people go to the South in the summer, and we with the husband this time went to the North. Not with the gastronomic purpose went. But local dishes were tried, of course. Mainly, fish. We tried her in different types. It is so unusual: when you order a fish plate at restaurant, but only personally at the waiter it is possible to specify what species of fish will be given. In the menu it is not stated because everything depends on a present catch: what fishermen will catch, will bring to restaurant. Day per day is not necessary. And still there vkusnyushchy kozul – painted gingerbreads and gates – pies with a berry stuffing.

I wanted to write about that travel long ago, but it was somehow difficult to set to work … Emotions overflow me still. And on fresh impressions not to master words at all. It was thought that any words – it is less of what I want to tell. But here now I will try.

The period of the white nights was chosen. We spent three days in Arkhangelsk.

The local Arbat is pedestrian Chumbarov-Luchinsky Avenue.

To walk on Severnaya Dvina Embankment - continuous pleasure.

Were chosen and home Lomonosov. I made for myself sensational discovery that it at all not Holmogora. Admit, too knew about such village? Here and at me since school years in the head a story about a fish wagon train, about the village sat down at the Arkhangelsk region. And this village was called Holmogora. But now I know that from Holmogor to the village of Lomonosovo (today the town where the strong country estate of the father Mikhaylo Lomonosov was located quite so is called), – still to scrape and scrape. From Holmogor on Kurostrov where that village is located, it is possible to reach only on the ferry in the summer. And then still – nearly three kilometers on foot on the dirt road. Well, or on the car if transported it on the ferry. It is the real island washed by sleeves of Northern Dvina.

Oh, the ferry is a separate adventure... As in my native land there is no high water, such crossing down the river – it the delight is direct! Especially as the question price - 25 rubles (one way ticket). For now went from the ferry to the museum constructed on the place where there was Lomonosov' house admired local houses. Very much picturesque buildings! Is, of course, old, lifeless, collapsing. There are shanties going to the earth offered for sale together with the land plots. And there is graceful handsome pleasing with brightness of facades, the good quality and some whether you know, friendliness, charm.


And after Arkhangelsk there were three days on the Solovki. Again island and. There was a strong wish to get there.


Already when the Vasily Kosyakov ship sailed away from pier to Kemi, I understood that this part of a travel will be magic. Ahead there were two hours of a way across the White Sea. I will explain: from the continent it is possible to reach the island or by plane from Arkhangelsk, or by motor ship from Kemi (it is Karelia). The plane – more habitual transport, and the motor ship is an exotic for us. We chose a sea way. And here the leader in the telecast went by plane. Such tarakhtelka, appears. Our motor ship, perhaps, too not the most respectable. But it was pleasant to move by sea.

Here you dvizhtsya on water – and around the sea of unusual color: gray-blue, but as though with zephyrous dusting. And on the way islands around which birds turn meet. By the way, our motor ship until the end of a way was continuously followed by seagulls. Lured. Know that people will throw some yum-yum.


However, the captain forbade to feed with bread. To them, as well as all birds, it is unhealthy. But unless you will hold our people … And what it was a high – to drink coffee in the middle of the White Sea when around – waves and splashes and from above drips. But let the whole world will wait, as they say.


And as these two hours quickly rushed … Bang - and here he is, hi, Tamarin the mooring!


It there, in Kemi, on the continent when we sailed away, was promozglo, heavy clouds as if were given to the earth, and dripped without ceasing any more. And when we went ashore the Big Solovki island, the sun shone as if rejoicing to our safe arrival. But huge pools gave the elements which concerned this place. The hostess of the apartment which we rented on the island called when we still were in Kemi: "Do you have raincoats?" Yes, raincoats were. But during a way weather cleared up.

Short stay on the island allowed to see many amazing places. First of all we visited, of course, Holy Transfiguration Solovetsky Monastery, near its mighty walls felt small blades of grass.



With the guide rose by Sekirnuyu the mountain. At its bottom in the 15th century aged men Savvaty and Herman Solovetskiye lodged. In Soviet period when on the island the camp of special function was organized, on the mountain there was a punishment cell. Such is the sad page of history. Standing there, you feel a chill on a back … Nearby – the cemetery of prisoners. And at the same time such grace covers. At mountain top – the charming temple beacon, church of Rise Dominical. The top point of the temple is at the height of 98 meters above sea level. Today the beacon works in the automatic mode and provides visibility on 10 miles.


We visited the island the Top where we observed seals in the habitat.


Came around on the cape Beluga and admired a flock of northern whales. There we reached on the boat, and it is forbidden to approach white whales, looked at their family games from far away. And still directly on the run the guide Ilya caught a laminaria. Grows on a stone.


It is that sea cabbage. On the Solovki preparation of a laminaria is a popular local trade. The laminaria goes both to cookery, and to cosmetics.

It is a lot of interesting places and on the Big Solovki island is the main island of the archipelago. We under the own steam climbed up in the Botanical garden, quite cozy and various on plant species, got on Filippovsky cages with an artificial dam from boulders, descended to stone labyrinths. Drove on the rowboat on lakes, and they there are connected by numerous channels so such boat trip - just charm, especially for this purpose who does not row, and sits as the passenger. Generally, it were surprising three days.

We, greedy to impressions, wandered about the island much, there was a wish to be in time as much as possible. Even it was somehow offensive to return to the apartment. It seems as we steal high points from ourselves. And it was necessary though a little to have a sleep. But even at night long could not return to the modest Penates - the white nights on the White Sea are wonderful before! I think, photos are more eloquent than me.




These pictures are made about midnight.

I was in St. Petersburg in June – and there too walked in the white night. But, apparently, here the white nights more gentle and some rolling, filled with special sense. And especially walk across the White Sea is a superfascinating adventure in the white night. Perhaps, the strongest impression was made by it: when on the boat you rush from the island to the island, a circle light though read the book, and on hours – half an hour till midnight.

But sea capricious, of course. It did not happen to bathe in White. In the middle of the summer it is holodnyushchy. To all who will gather there, I will tell that it is even necessary to have with itself a jacket or a warm jacket in the summer. And in the afternoon weather can sharply change and the more so at night. But from that urinate legs, I did not keep.


Of course, it is difficult to tell everything in one text. I can write separately about a trip home of Lomonosov, about color of the Pomor village, about what was seen in Arkhangelsk. Let know if it is interesting.